From potimarron to yellow, pepper or spaghetti squash, there are a hundred different varieties of squash in Quebec. Cultivated and eaten by the Iroquoian peoples before the arrival of Europeans, squash has enjoyed a resurgence in popularity in recent decades. A boom that no doubt has to do with a famous pagan festival, of which the pumpkin is the emblem.
As Halloween approaches, pumpkins are everywhere, enthroned on window frames and at the foot of front doors. This tradition of using pumpkins as decoration is rooted in an Irish legend, imported from Europe during the massive waves of immigration in the 19th century. It tells how the character of Jack O’Lantern, condemned to wander in the dark after making a pact with the devil, tried to light his way by depositing a handful of hellfire embers inside a turnip. To honor this legend, terrifying faces were drawn in the flesh of root vegetables. But since pumpkins are easier to carve, the Irish favored them over time!
© Ferme Éthier
One of the three sisters
In pre-colonial America, the squash evoked a very different story. Associated with the Iroquoian people’s myth of the creation of the Earth, squash is one of the three plants – along with corn and beans – that grew on the sacred burial site where the Sky Woman buried her daughter. Nicknamed “The Three Sisters”, these complementary plants were grown together in gardens, a sign that the Iroquoians practiced permaculture. The corn stalk served as a natural stake for the beans. The squash plant’s vast foliage kept weeds at bay. The “sagamité” soup brought these three hearts together in a single dish.
© L’Arc-en-ciel-du-Paradis
Recipes
Beyond the traditional soups and pies, there are a multitude of recipes to discover featuring the different varieties of squash. And it’s the perfect companion for a gastronomic journey! Tian – a lasagne of zucchini, tomato and eggplant – takes us to Provence; butternut, in risotto or gnocchi, takes us to Italy; simmered in curry, butternut squash takes us as far as Asia!
🎃 Butternut
It’s one of the most popular squashes, probably because it’s one of the most versatile! You can recognize it by its brownish pear shape and creamy, nutty flesh.
🎃 Spaghetti
With its fairly neutral taste and flesh that disintegrates into long strands, it can easily replace pasta.
🎃 Crookneck
Rarer today, the Crookneck was one of six varieties of squash grown in the gardens of the Iroquoian peoples. As its name suggests, it has a long, twisted stem. Its neck – reputedly breakable – has made it an undesirable product for supermarkets. However, its gustatory qualities have earned it a place on the Ark of Taste, which aims to identify quality foods threatened with extinction.
🎃 Jack be little
Much more than a decorative centerpiece for autumn, Jack be little is a delicious edible squash. Stored in the right conditions, it can even be kept for up to a year. Its mealy flesh, with a nutty, chestnut-like flavor, is just waiting to be stuffed!
🎃 Lady Godiva
Pumpkin seed lovers, you’ve found your ideal fruit! The Lady Godiva, in addition to its sweet flesh, is appreciated for its hull-less seeds, ideal for snacking!
